FKT: Jacqueline Florine - California Fourteeners (CA) - 2006-07-23

Route variation
Standard route
Gender category
Female
Style
Supported
Finish date
Total time
9d 12h 17m 0s
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Speed attempts on the CA 14ers by a women have been rare, and so far have been accompanied by men. In July 2006 Jacqueline Florine climbed the 14 then-legal 14ers in 9d12h17m. In late July 2012 Maggie Crawford attempted the FKT, but was stopped by giardia.

 

"I wanted to do this so it would be fun, not a death march," Jacki said. "No other woman has done this (in succession), so I had plenty of time to set the record. To prepare, I created a folder for each mountain, so I could plan the strategy for each summit."

 

She started at Mount Shasta, where she caught a break with perfect weather and ideal snow-surface conditions. She reached the 14,162-foot summit in six hours. From there, she ventured south to the Sierra.

Jacki's magic days were trekking among the Palisades, the spectacular mountain peaks south of Bishop Pass (11,990 feet). Cutting above the John Muir Trail, she summited Thunderbolt, Starlight, North Palisade, Polemnonium, Mount Sill, Middle Palisade and Split Mountain.

After bagging Mount Whitney, Mount Muir, Mount Russell and Tyndall and White Mountain (east of the Owens Valley). That left remote Mount Langley near Cottonwood Pass. With one last huff-and-a-puff from Cottonwood Pass south of Whitney, she had triumphed.

It was Tyndall that provided the biggest challenge.

"Clouds were coming in, but I did a wind check and saw the clouds seemed to be patterning," Jacki said. "I ran up Mount Tyndall and got to the top, and the wind shifted, the clouds started building up all around me, and the snow started coming down. Then there was lightning and thunder everywhere."

That was when she retreated to her hiding place in the rocks.

"At one point, I thought I was going to die," she said, then added. "As a climber, you choose your weather. You don't force your schedule on the mountain. If you're not spot-on, you take yourself out of the picture."

More from Hans Florine, addressing the question of whether Jacki climbed alone or with partners:

http://speedclimb.blogspot.com/2015/03/women-in-my-life.html 

"A few years later Jacki became the first woman to climb all 14 of the California 14ers continuously, in under 10 days.... Jacki did it alone, pairing up with numerous partners who had to tag team to keep up with her. I tagged along with her for the Palisades range traverse*, which bags five 14ers in one sweep."

And also:

http://leteton.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2006-07-20T12:49:00-07:00

describes most of the legs and the partners. Hans was with her for Split, Thunderbolt, Starlight, N.Palisade, Polemonium, and Sill. Peter Coward joined her for Middle Palisade, Russell, Whitney and Muir. It does not state whether Mike Ayon joined her for Shasta and Tyndall, or whether Peter joined her for Langley or if they just shuttled her for these legs.